I just did the math. Of the days we’ve been on this trip we’ve averaged 14,600 steps per day. The most we walked was 26,024 steps when we went to the bamboo forest on June 5th. At this point of the trip our feet were tiiireed. However, it was the last full day for the trip so we had to make it count.
One of the big landmarks for Osaka was visiting Osaka castle. We didn’t have enough time to explore inside but we walked by it and got a few pictures.
Yep, that’s a big castle. Upon further inspection, it is still a big castle. I got a picture of Joanna modeling her new takoyaki shirt she got from an independent tshirt screen printer and a REAL samurai who was walking around the park outside of the castle. I couldn’t not take a picture of him.
As we were leaving the castle grounds, there was a random dude sitting on top of the steps just chilling with an owl. I wasn’t really sure what to make of it other than the fact that he’s into falconry? We walked a few more minutes away from the castle and there were 4 other guys just chilling and hanging out with their birds of prey. Maybe the city hires them to keep pigeons off the castle? I know I’m into pretty niche hobbies, getting into falconry crossed my mind for a hot second.
We walked by an ice cream stand that sold Cremia ice cream. I had never heard of it but Joanna said that they use Hokkaido milk which is the best place to source milk in the country and the ice cream was like 12% milk fat so you know it’s good and it was! We did some more shopping to kill time and to get more hungry before lunch. Joanna needed to buy sunscreen to bring back home. I listened to an NPR story that the FDA hasn’t approved any new sunscreens in a very long time, thus stifling innovation in the US (Link). However abroad, sunscreen technology has advanced really far in terms of effectiveness and comfort in application.
I really wanted to go to Izakaya Toyo which was a 15 minute walk away from the castle. This meal had to count as I’ve built this meal up a lot in my head. I first learned about this restaurant about 5 years ago from a Only in Japan youtube series.
Last year, Netflix came out with an Osaka episode of Street Food Asia about the restaurant. The owner Toyoji Chikumoto is an absolute legend who started his restaurant in 1992 out of the back of his truck in a parking lot space. He became famous due to his ability to grill tuna with a blow torch and his bare hands. According to the Netflix episode he said this was the fastest way to cook the fish without damaging the meat. He dips his right hand in a bath of salty ice water and moves the tuna around while holding a propane torch in the other.
This guy is a total character playing it up for the camera. He even put a cigarette in his mouth and lit it with the torch while cooking.
There was a long line down the block to get a table at the restaurant but thankfully it moved pretty quickly. From when we first got in line, we were served within 40 minutes and were in and out within an hour. The atmosphere was awesome, everyone was having a good time and the food was even better. I kind of wish we just went here instead of the crab restaurant last night.
I ordered a medium fatty tuna sushi plate for 2 plus the grilled tuna cheeks. What came was a shredded crab and scallop salad, tuna sushi rolls topped with salmon roe and sea urchin, thick pieces of fatty tuna, and the thing everyone came to Izakaya Toyo to try, the tuna cheeks.
All of it was super fresh and not fishy at all. Joanna wasn’t planning on eating any of it but the fact that it was so fresh pulled her in. The tuna cheeks were a combination of chicken thigh and pork and had a really nice smoky flavor to it. The whole thing was about $28 which totally fair for the quality and amount that we got.
In between grilling sessions Toyoji san would crack jokes with his regulars or take pictures with tourists. Honestly, it was worth coming to Osaka just to eat here.
Wow. What a fun trip. How many times did Joanna have ice cream? 🙂 Thanks for letting learn so much from your adventures. It’s great to see the world with your two. I remember the first day you came into BIW and told me how you loved to travel and how many plans you had. I’m so glad your job, life, wife are so good. You are amazing. Never stop smiling. 🙂 (Kristin/HR/BIW)
By my count, 11 times which clearly wasn’t enough haha
So glad you’re still following along Kristin, always love hearing from you!