Nothing really happened today which was totally by design. Out first time staying at a ryokan, I only booked us for 1 night and the whole experience was so rushed as we checked in at 5pm and were shooed out of there by 10am (Japanese efficiency). Now that I know better, stays at an onsen town must include at least a full day to take it slow, eat, and soak in hot springs.
This morning we got to the main building at 8:02 for breakfast and could see the staff announcing on their walkie talkies that we had arrived, Joanna said they’re probably panicking that we were 2 minutes late since everything is always on time here. Breakfast was again beautifully prepared and served. There was an assortment of pickles, grilled fish, mentaiko (cod roe), tofu soup, miso soup, and rice. Kyushu is famous for its mentaiko, we basically have it served to us in every meal. It’s kind of grainy, pickled, and sometimes spicy. In the most Minnesota nice way possible – It’s not my favorite. I still don’t understand why it’s a regional specialty but I’ll still eat a bit of it to be polite.
One of my dear readers asked me how you learn about the bathing culture. Bathing culture is almost always covered in youtube videos when you’re looking for hot spring spots to stay at in Japan. It’s also abundantly clear when you’re actually at the place itself, just have to watch what the old naked dudes do and follow along. OR if you’d rather not stare at wrinkly butts, there are signs like this available as a guide:
I asked Joanna if the old ladies are as comfortable with their nakedness as the old guys here. She made a face and said “Heck no, everyone’s trying to hide themselves and show as little of their bits as possible”. I laughed because the dudes in my onsen are usually just sitting on the ledge spread eagle or standing up taking in the views with their arms on their hips. Reminds me of this Oatmeal comic. Glad being comfortable with your old wrinkly skin transcends cultures.
There are about 30 different onsens that you can experience here in Kurokawa. How it works is that you spend $10 on a little wooden day pass which gives you access to 2 onsens and a souvenir or a snack. Otherwise you can have a 3rd soak in an onsen. The staff at the ryokan provided me with a map and pamphlet about the health benefits of soaking in the mineral rich hot springs water. They offered their recommendations on which ones we should try:
Shinmeikan – Joanna’s side had a 5 ft deep pool which is unusual as they are usually knee deep. You suspend yourself in the pool by grabbing onto hanging bamboo poles to keep your head above water
Ikoi Royokan – One of my top favorite onsens of all time, was able to overlook the river flowing past while you’re in a cave setting, very very relaxing
Yukyonohibiki Yusai – set in a very fancy hotel, there were 2 really nice pools. The outside also overlooked the river but I didn’t manage to get a pic of it.
Here’s the breakdown of the benefits
Chloride Springs: the salt adheres to the skin preventing sweat from evaporating. Thus having a moisturizing effect and keeps you warm. Bathing in chloride springs will prevent the skin from drying out and will give a finishing touch to the hot spring’s beautifying effect
Sulfate Springs: Sulfate springs are said to be rejuvenating and especially effective for the skin. The water creates a film on the skin, which helps to minimize scars quickly. The sodium in the water is moisturizing and relieves pain by warming the body
Hydrogen carbonate springs: This type of spring softens the surface of the skin. It also emulsifies and washes away sebum and oils, thus cleansing the skin as though with soap. It has a smoothing effect and evening effect on the skin and is said to be a quintessential spring for beauty.
Acide springs: This spring is highly acidic and has an anti-bacterial effect. Not suitable for the elderly or for those with sensitive skin due to strong stimulation.
I think we really lucked out with timing being that it was a Friday but all the onsens were virtually empty. Again, because I’m a rule breaker, I managed to get the pictures of the places that we visited.
Between soaks we got ice cream to cool down as the water coming out of the plumbing was rated at 170f. I think the pool itself was around 104f though. You come out of the water and steam is just coming off your body.
Whenever we see this little ice cream cone light we have to stop to see what flavors they have available. Today we got two ice creams, one with milk locally sourced from Mt. Aso drizzled with Manuka honey which we’ve never tried before and one drizzled with freshly roasted and brewed coffee. The manuka honey tasted almost medicinal and slightly bitter which was interesting. We also got a nice rice bowl with grilled eel.
Before we knew it, it was already time to make our way back for dinner. Along the path back to our ryokan, there was a footbath that we took a break at. You can see how hot the water was with the distinct red line on Joanna’s pale legs.
Dinner was even better than last night’s. There was a beautiful plate of A5 Kumamoto wagyu beef waiting for us at the table. Tonight’s dinner was sukiyaki with a large portion of veggies to accompany the beef. We were also served vinegared scallops, a small dish of sashimi, pickled veggies, steamed daikon radish with orange zest, and plum wine jelly as dessert. OMG the beef just melted in your mouth, there was no chew to it nor was it overly fatty either. Just perfect.
Of course to close out the night we needed to do another couple soaks in the onsens at the ryokan. We went back to the open air bath, then checked out two private onsens as well. If someone knows something about woodworking, I need help converting one of the bedrooms in my house into an onsen room please.
I never understood the charm of hot springs (BC had many that drew crowds from all over) so this was a fascinating read. Didn’t know there were so many kinds of onsens. Sounds super relaxing. I’m still not getting naked in public especially with grandmas hiding bits. Nuh uh.
Thank you for sharing your adventures in Japan Andrew.
You are so welcome Mrs. McElroy! Thank you for following along. I hope you’re enjoying my ramblings. Say hi to Mike for me 🙂